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Thread: My '87 442

  1. #21
    Administrator 88hurstolds's Avatar
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    Awesome to see it's back on the road, labor of love as they say...
    As long as you enjoy driving it that's all that matters.
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    88 H/O #1 of 4
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    85 442 White/Blue - T-tops
    85 442 White/Blue - T-tops
    85 442 White/Claret - T-tops
    85 442 White/Sage
    84 H/O Aero Commemorative #2199 - Sunroof
    83 H/O #2400 Sand Gray - Sunroof
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    "Keep them Rockets lit!"

  2. #22
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    Yep, very much so. Lots of labor left to do yet Any ideas as to how to get the old clearcoat off? I'm not sure whether to wet sand it with 1000 or greater sandpaper, or use lacquer thinner. As for the rest of the body, I'm considering priming the trunk, since it is pretty rough. The comment was made by someone I know that if I did that, it would have to be stripped. The top surface has to be sanded and possibly stripped anyway. I may be able to rub out the rest of it at least for now.

    I'm also considering a different shifter. I've looked at the Quicksilver, and it looks pretty good when installed in the console. I wish Hurst had a similar shifter that would fit, or at least offer a dual-gate.
    '76 Cutlass S 350 (1981-83)
    '79 Cutlass Supreme 260 (1983-85)
    '79 Cutlass Supreme 350 Chevy (1989-1993)
    '77 Cutlass Salon 350 (1996-present)
    '98 Bravada - green - (2005) RIP
    '98 Bravada - black - (2005-2011) sold
    '87 442 (May 2010) undergoing restoration

  3. #23
    Senior Member Fader's Avatar
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    disclaimer...I am definitely not an auto body professional.

    As far as the rust...anywhere that it is rusted through more than a light surface rust, the only proper way to fix it would be to cut out the rust & weld in new metal. For removing the peeling clear coat, I would try your idea of a very high grit sand paper on an area & see what happens. The problem you could have would be scratches & swirls in the paint from sanding. Try an area that already looks rough.
    If you want a shorter term solution to make the car more presentable....you could sand all of that clear coat off, rough up the paint some, & shoot it with an epoxy primer. That doesn't solve your rust problem. From what I've read a lot of people will seal a car with the epoxy & finish the body work in an area & then re shoot primer there when finished... so if you go that route, it would be worth block sanding everything so that you only have to revisit the rusty areas later.

  4. #24
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    I'm planning on having it completely repainted sometime in the future. I will need to replace the quarters to get it looking right, preferably full quarters to make sure the sail panels look right (bondo cracking on the passenger side). In the meantime, just removing the surface rust and clearcoat and getting it presentable is the big challenge. One question is whether priming areas of the car will cause issues when I do have it repainted. I may speak to a bodyman I know to see what he recommends. Thanks for the tips...greatly appreciated.
    '76 Cutlass S 350 (1981-83)
    '79 Cutlass Supreme 260 (1983-85)
    '79 Cutlass Supreme 350 Chevy (1989-1993)
    '77 Cutlass Salon 350 (1996-present)
    '98 Bravada - green - (2005) RIP
    '98 Bravada - black - (2005-2011) sold
    '87 442 (May 2010) undergoing restoration

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