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Thread: Idle too high!!!

  1. #1
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    Default Idle too high!!!

    So i got the 403 to start and its running better than before the only thing now is the idle is too high. i adjusted the idle screws all the way and i can not go anymore and its still at about 1250 to 1400 rpms, i haven't yet timed it because im trying to get it to idle down how can i fix this? is my carb getting too much gas? the carb was perfect but the idle screws where all the way in before i did a tune up now its running better and i can't go any farther in to adjust it anymore, could it also be a vacuum leak and if so what vacuum lines do i need to have for it to run good and what can i eliminate. whoever installed this engine already eliminated some and i don't know exactly what is needed.

  2. #2
    Administrator 88hurstolds's Avatar
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    Vacuum lines are only needed for the EGR, Vacuum Advance and Rear Vacuum brake which is useless...
    It all depends on what your running emissions wise too.
    You can use starting fluid to find leaks too.

    Chances are your high idle on your choke needs adjustment.
    More details are needed to help any further, post a photo.
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    hopefully these help
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    Administrator 88hurstolds's Avatar
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    I see several issues...

    Your high idle is most likely coming from two things, first the distributor advance is hooked up to the ported vacuum on the right front of the carb and second you hooked the other vacuum port on the right front of the carb up to the manifold vacuum (vacuum to vacuum) and the manifold vacuum is going to be a bit stronger and thus causing the high idle.

    Your distributor vacuum advance is hooked up to the ported vacuum port on the front right side of your carb. That port is strictly for the EGR. I suggest you hook your EGR to that so you don't have pinging, you are actually hurting performance and gas milage not running the EGR.
    Disconnect the vacuum advance line from the ported vacuum port for the EGR and connect it to the manifold vacuum port coming off the left front of the carb (the one you have pugged up).
    Take that plug and block off that port next to the left of the EGR ported vauum on the front of the carb, that line is for emissions stuff and you don't need it and also plug the manifold port on the front of the manifold.

    You should be good to go after that.

    Here is a photo to better understand if you can sift through the emissions mess...
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  5. #5
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    So i change everything you said to do and found out i need a new vacuum advance it was bent so it didn't move and wouldn't hold a vacuum so im getting a new distributor and see how it runs but i did get it running like it is without the vacuum advance and the idle was at 1800. should getting a new distributor with a new advance get the idle down?
    thanks for all the help

  6. #6
    Administrator 88hurstolds's Avatar
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    It doesn't hurt to get a rebuild kit and change the springs on the rotor.
    That will help with everything.
    I've had them stick from sitting...
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  7. #7
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    I'm going to get a whole new distributor. I already have cap and rotor!

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