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Dash Removal

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  • Dash Removal

    Here is a little step by step on how to properly remove your dash, please feel free to add any other pointers to avoid cracking these delicate pieces.

    First open up the hood and get a 1/4" socket with a long extension. Under the wiper motor is the fuse block with a 1/4" bolt in the center, loosen completely until the bolt just spins, it will not come out.

    Remove the under column cover and under dash covers, unbolt the steering column and lower it as much as possible.
    Disconnect all connections, also disconnect the connection to the cruise control brain box as well.
    If at all possible remove the column entirely first. It will save you the headache of removing the entire dash as a whole without cracking it.

    On the fuse block you will need to disconnect any power accessories as well as the lead that goes to the distribution block for the dome light/power windows/power seat etc.
    The power door lead is orange and has a large silver fuse connected to it on the fuse panel.
    Here is a picture with all the necessary wire leads removed:

    Next unbolt the fuse block, from the fire wall with 7mm socket (remember to undo the 1/4 bolt in the center of the fuse block on the engine compartment side under the wiper motor, remove this first and then disconnect).
    Here is a picture of it already disconnected:

    Disconnect the break light and cruise switches on the pedals.

    Disconnect the Break release cable by sliding the cable grommet out with a screwdriver.

    Disconnect the rear defoger switch along with the RH remote mirror if also optioned.

    There are 3 main 10mm bolts under the dash, one on the LH side just under the break release cable, one under the radio (See Picture below)
    The third one on the very right side in the same spot as the one on the left was. FYI there is an identical bolt right next to it which is a ground for the Power Antennae Relay I believe, you don't need to remove this.
    (Picture of access hole in the plate under the radio you can slide the socket with extension in to get to this bolt, if the dash has an ashtray you may need to remove it first)

    Disconnect the power antennae, radio and the heater controls (there is one stand alone wire that plugs in just behind the controls, this is the power wire for the blower and you need to disconnect this as well).

    Almost done...

    Next remove the speaker covers and RH dash vent trim.
    You will see a 7mm bold behind the dash vent trim and 4 torx screws at the top of the dash, remove these.

    Now carefully pull the dash out a little, get an extra pair of hands to help to avoid cracking the radio area and sides.
    The main lower metal bracket goes up and over the column and is sandwiched between to metal plates, it will slide out.

    Reach your hand behind the dash and unhook the speedometer cable by pushing in the metal tab.

    The dash will come out as a whole with the fuse block, wire harness, gauges/upper pad, glove box.
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  • #2
    Awesome bro ur 88 is a beautiful car and u said it perfect on how to get a very difficult but delicate componet to any g body what i do first to make the dash not so stiff and more chances to crack i take the gauge cluster out first i found it easier to work that dash bracket of the steering column they can be real ruff sometimes but everything else u said is dead on
    Ethan's Slopoke Performance


    • #3
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