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Found this, pretty cool mod:
Originally posted by snowri
Hi everyone,
I am on my third (and hopefully) last serpentine mock-up. The first used the diesel serpentine setup which would have worked but I couldn't get past the unique diesel crank pulley. The second attempt used the factory Olds BB brackets with serpentine pulleys + an idler & tensioner pulley. I used a f*rd crank pulley and it was great until the engine warmed up. Believe the factory brackets would move ever so slightly as it warmed up thereby threatening to throw off the belt...
The most recent attempt is really the most simple of the three... I am using SBC serpentine brackets from an mid-90s S10 4.3L and with a 1/4" steel plate. Along with the f*rd crank pulley, it provides perfect alignment, spacing and virtually no idler pulley oscillation. The belt stays put as the engine heats up. I guess the aluminum brackets not only provide weight savings but also structural consistency through thermal warm-up.
I used another 455 on an engine stand to mock-up the 1/4" steel plate brackets. Both of the chevy accessory brackets have 2 bolts at the top where it bolts to the chevy heads and 1 (sometimes 2) and the bottom where it bolts to the chevy block.
The driver's side steel bracket I fabricated uses all 3 head bolt holes and a single bolt hole in block just below the head and the same bolt hole that the power steering uses next to motor mount. The aluminum bracket bolts to the steel plate using all 3 bolt provisions assuring that all pulleys are on the same plane as the water pump & crank pulleys. I tapped the 3 bolt locations and welded some nuts on the back of the plate for added reliability.
The passenger aluminum bracket had to be modified for 2 reasons: (1) needed clearance for the lower radiator hose and (2) didn't need the air pump. A third reason would be for clearance of the fuel pump though I'm using an in-tank fuel pump. I used a portaband just below the idler pulley boss. The steel plate adapter on the passenger side is much smaller & simpler. However, I wonder how much structural support I'm losing by cutting off the lower bracket... I've noticed no noticeable deflection when install the belt or rev the engine. I also welded nuts on the back of the bracket similar to the driver's side.
The factory chevy serpentine setup uses numerous support rods presumably to reduce vibrations and structural cracking at the tensioner. I got a number of these from several donor engines and made my own. A torch to re-angle the ends and mig to weld two pieces together to make a couple support rod brackets for the tensioner. I used an R4 compressor when i was mocking up these brackets before i made a set of brackets to adapt to a Sanden compressor. I then powder coated the brackets using semi-gloss black to make it blend in with rest of the engine.
So far so good... I'll try to upload some pictures later tonight...
Scott
btw - thanks to all the great info I've learned from this site!!!
The water pump does come from the Olds V6 diesel. The power steering pulley is from the chevy serpentine setup. The only spacers that I have in place is the 1/4 steel plate adapters for the aluminum chevy accessory brackets and a 1/8 shim for the water pump pulley. The f*rd crank pulley is flush against the harmonic balancer.
No cooling issues using the V6 Olds reverse rotation water pump last Summer in Atlanta. I've installed an aluminum radiator with reverse rotation mechanical fan from a mid-90s caprice (bolt pattern lines up perfectly w/Olds V6 water pump & diameter comparable to the original) and twin electric fans (out of late 90s FWD GM car). One of the fans comes on with the A/C compressor to increase air-flow through the condensor and the second fan comes on using the original coolant temperature sensor (i know this sounds high but seems like the Olds manual shows ~252 degrees for the dummy light to come on.... will check when i return).
The temp gage and computer scanner showed coolant temp hovering between 180-200 degrees last Summer w/AC on. Since I am using mid-90s TBI sensors and 4L80E, I needed to use electronic gages & speedometer out of a similar vintage vehicle. The cluster from a 93-96 Park Avenue fits nearly perfect... Other than the newer gage set, there's no other indication from the interior/exterior the car now has TBI/OD.
_________________
I am on my third (and hopefully) last serpentine mock-up. The first used the diesel serpentine setup which would have worked but I couldn't get past the unique diesel crank pulley. The second attempt used the factory Olds BB brackets with serpentine pulleys + an idler & tensioner pulley. I used a f*rd crank pulley and it was great until the engine warmed up. Believe the factory brackets would move ever so slightly as it warmed up thereby threatening to throw off the belt...
The most recent attempt is really the most simple of the three... I am using SBC serpentine brackets from an mid-90s S10 4.3L and with a 1/4" steel plate. Along with the f*rd crank pulley, it provides perfect alignment, spacing and virtually no idler pulley oscillation. The belt stays put as the engine heats up. I guess the aluminum brackets not only provide weight savings but also structural consistency through thermal warm-up.
I used another 455 on an engine stand to mock-up the 1/4" steel plate brackets. Both of the chevy accessory brackets have 2 bolts at the top where it bolts to the chevy heads and 1 (sometimes 2) and the bottom where it bolts to the chevy block.
The driver's side steel bracket I fabricated uses all 3 head bolt holes and a single bolt hole in block just below the head and the same bolt hole that the power steering uses next to motor mount. The aluminum bracket bolts to the steel plate using all 3 bolt provisions assuring that all pulleys are on the same plane as the water pump & crank pulleys. I tapped the 3 bolt locations and welded some nuts on the back of the plate for added reliability.
The passenger aluminum bracket had to be modified for 2 reasons: (1) needed clearance for the lower radiator hose and (2) didn't need the air pump. A third reason would be for clearance of the fuel pump though I'm using an in-tank fuel pump. I used a portaband just below the idler pulley boss. The steel plate adapter on the passenger side is much smaller & simpler. However, I wonder how much structural support I'm losing by cutting off the lower bracket... I've noticed no noticeable deflection when install the belt or rev the engine. I also welded nuts on the back of the bracket similar to the driver's side.
The factory chevy serpentine setup uses numerous support rods presumably to reduce vibrations and structural cracking at the tensioner. I got a number of these from several donor engines and made my own. A torch to re-angle the ends and mig to weld two pieces together to make a couple support rod brackets for the tensioner. I used an R4 compressor when i was mocking up these brackets before i made a set of brackets to adapt to a Sanden compressor. I then powder coated the brackets using semi-gloss black to make it blend in with rest of the engine.
So far so good... I'll try to upload some pictures later tonight...
Scott
btw - thanks to all the great info I've learned from this site!!!
The water pump does come from the Olds V6 diesel. The power steering pulley is from the chevy serpentine setup. The only spacers that I have in place is the 1/4 steel plate adapters for the aluminum chevy accessory brackets and a 1/8 shim for the water pump pulley. The f*rd crank pulley is flush against the harmonic balancer.
No cooling issues using the V6 Olds reverse rotation water pump last Summer in Atlanta. I've installed an aluminum radiator with reverse rotation mechanical fan from a mid-90s caprice (bolt pattern lines up perfectly w/Olds V6 water pump & diameter comparable to the original) and twin electric fans (out of late 90s FWD GM car). One of the fans comes on with the A/C compressor to increase air-flow through the condensor and the second fan comes on using the original coolant temperature sensor (i know this sounds high but seems like the Olds manual shows ~252 degrees for the dummy light to come on.... will check when i return).
The temp gage and computer scanner showed coolant temp hovering between 180-200 degrees last Summer w/AC on. Since I am using mid-90s TBI sensors and 4L80E, I needed to use electronic gages & speedometer out of a similar vintage vehicle. The cluster from a 93-96 Park Avenue fits nearly perfect... Other than the newer gage set, there's no other indication from the interior/exterior the car now has TBI/OD.
_________________
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