86 manual trans

[86-blk442]

What is recommended to swap to a manual trans in an 86, 442?

[88hurstolds]

What is recommended to swap to a manual trans in an 86, 442?

Well first thing is that your crank needs to be drilled for the pilot bearing.

And it also depends on the type, T-56, Saginaw, Muncie, Tremec and if you are looking to use a hydraulic clutch.
I would say a T-56 is the way to go, Iceman makes the crossmember.

If you are going with an olds then you will either need an adapter plate if using a chevy setup or a very rare bellhousing from a 5-speed from a 260.
I believe you can use the earlier '60's/'70's bellhousing as well.
There is an aftermarket Olds T-56 bellhousing but it isn't cheap.

Here is what you typically need for the clutch pedals:
FMCK-78G.jpg

Some have used the 3-Gen F-body setup but you need to
Here is what a few guys did:

http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic2249-10.html

and Andrew Geeting's setup:

Dave, this info is from my T-56 swap but could still help with a 4 speed swap as well.


Transmission:
Manufacturer: Borg Warner/ General Motors
Model: 1996 T-56
Part No.: Unknown
Dealer: N/A
Cost: $700.00 +/-


Bellhousing:
Manufacturer: McLeod
Model: SFI approved Blowproof Modular line
Part No.: 8710-15
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-8710-15/
Cost: $441.99


Note: Due to the shorter input shaft of the LT1 style T-56, this kit is necessary as it also comes with a special pilot bushing that helps support the input shaft in the crank.


Flywheel:
Manufacturer: Oldsmobile
Part No.: Unknown
Cost: $100.00+/-


Clutch:
Manufacturer: Centerforce
Model: DFX, SFI approved
Part No.: 01148552
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-01148552/
Cost: $325.95


Note: This part number is for a Chevelle however it fits an Oldsmobile just fine.


Flywheel bolts:
Manufacturer: ARP
Model: Pro Series
Part No.: 200-2802
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-200-2802/
Cost: $13.84


Pressure Plate bolts:
Manufacturer: ARP
Model: Pro Series
Part No.: 230-2202
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-230-2202/
Cost: $25.95




Hydraulic Throw-out bearing:
Manufacturer: Weir Hot Rod Products
Model: Unknown
Part No.: Unknown
Cost: $150.00 +/-


Note: This T/O bearing was bought with a Weir Hot Rod Products bellhousing "kit" however I wanted an SFI approved steel bellhousing and decided to sell the WHRP bellhousing. I kept the T/O bearing but due to the difference in bellhousings needed to make a spacer that fit between the transmission face and T/O bearing.


Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder:
Manufacturer: General Motors
Model: N/A
Part No.: 12570277
Dealer: GMPartsdirect.com
Cost: $139.18


Note: The main body of the clutch and master cylinder are used however the braided line is discarded for an aftermarket line that doesn't have the funky quick disconnect fitting on it. An adapter fitting is available from Earl's Plumbing to join the braided stainless steel line to the GM clutch cylinder.


Clutch Pedal:
Manufacturer: John Bzdel
Model: N/A
Part No: Unknown
Dealer: John Bzdel http://www.ls7montess.com
Cost: $150.00+/-


Note: This is a clutch pedal with geometry designed to mate properly with the above LS1 clutch master cylinder. It bolts directly onto the stock automatic pedal assembly and requires that the stock brake pedal be trimmed down for clearance. It is also required to fabricate a positive stop as well as a bracket for the neutral safety switch.


Neutral Safety Switch:
Manufacturer: General Motors
Model: N/A
Part No.: Unknown
Dealer: Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, O'reily's, etc.
Cost: $7.00 +/-


Note: This is a NSS from a 3rd generation ('82-'92) GM F-body.


Transmission Crossmember:
Manufacturer: 'Iceman'
Model: T-56 dual hump
Part No.: Unknown
Dealer: 'Iceman'
Cost: $150.00+/-


Transmission Yoke:
Manufacturer: Strange Engineering
Model: N/A
Part No.: Depends on application
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment
Cost: $50.00+/-


Note: The T-56 takes the same transmission yoke as a TH-2004R, TH-350, etc. I didn't include a part number or model as it depends on what size U-joints your running. In my case I have the 1350 series.

[86-blk442]

I will have to look at my crank, I know I took pictures but I could swear I saw a couple of steps and a hole about an 2 inches (+/-) deep in the back of my crankshaft. However, when I purchased the engine it had a flexplate on it. As far as I know the block is a 1973 vintage.