1986 442

[sergio86442]

Hey there im new to this site and im so glad i found it..I have an 86 442
The grey one with the moon roof. 61,000 orig miles. No rust mint but I have been having tons of problems with the engine. I had to get all the hydro lifters replaced and 3 push rods. I lived in IL my whole life in 09 I trailed the Olds to Nevada and had to Drive her back home in July 10. On the way home in NM the car was knocking ...Oil pressure was fine so I drove home and the car made it. My mech took the top end off and found 3 of the hydro lifters blew up. So had them replaced just the other day the car started knocking again after its warmed up. Still have good oil pressure. And the carb has been giving me problems from day one. Changed the TPS and im still getting the error code. Any of you guys live out in ILLINOIS and know a good Olds mech that knows these cars. Thanks Sergio

[88hurstolds]

Beautiful car, I've always loved the Gray/Gray 86 442's.

What error codes are you getting?
The TPS needs proper adjustment with a volt meter, also, don't use anything but AC Delco, I've heard that aftermarkets are crap and give incorrect voltage readings to the computer.

I have a service manual if you need any specific info, where are you in IL?

Did you replace all the lifters? They are rolllers so chances that the cam is wiped are minimal.
Where is the knocking coming from?
You can put a screwdriver in various places to feel the knocking.

[sergio86442]

1986 442

Im In Romeoville ,IL 60446 I replaced all 16 of the rollers becuse 3 of them blew up and three of the push rods were bad also. This car has low milage and all these problems. The carb I had rebuild but I think the guy screwed up. I used an Acdelco TPS. and the error code is for TPS 12 or 21 one of those 2. Also my RPM gauge is all out of wack. I need a real OLDS Mech ....I would like to just pull the engine and start over. I will check for the knocks over the week end.
Thanks

[88hurstolds]

Id look at it for you if you were closer, there is one guy in Joliet that I ran into a couple years ago who works on these cars but I dont have his number.
Did you disconnect the battery for an hour to clear the codes and reset the computer so it can relearn?
21 is for the TPS but that has nothing to do with knocking.
If theres knocking you may have a bent rod or a spun bearing.
Dont give up, its a low mile numbers matching car which is extremely rare, most just hack these cars up and stuff a chevy in it which is a discrace...

[88hurstolds]

Also, an erratic tach is due to a loose jumper on the back of the tach, its an easy fix, just replace the jumper with a pice of solder and wire.


http://tech.oldsgmail.com/eint_tach_fix.php

[sergio86442]

86 442

Thanks Again....If your ever out my way let me know. Lots of car shows out here. Just did one in Oaklawn at the Tilted Kilt ,me and my dad have the same cars,he has the black one with t-tops. He took 1st place and I took 3rd. As for my car she with sit in the garage with a cover til I figure it out. Thanks

[88hurstolds]

Sweet, very nice pair

[78SA]

Thanks Again....If your ever out my way let me know. Lots of car shows out here. Just did one in Oaklawn at the Tilted Kilt ,me and my dad have the same cars,he has the black one with t-tops. He took 1st place and I took 3rd. As for my car she with sit in the garage with a cover til I figure it out. Thanks

:icon14: Love them both.

[jrbarrie83]

Also, an erratic tach is due to a loose jumper on the back of the tach, its an easy fix, just replace the jumper with a pice of solder and wire.


http://tech.oldsgmail.com/eint_tach_fix.php

Is there any sort of heat-sink or other precaution that needs to be used during this process? I tried once before without one and was afraid of frying the circuit board or causing some other type of damage, and it basically was a cold solder and it popped off shortly after. What is your best advice for completing this task?

[88hurstolds]

From what I've seen many of the later tachometers already are soldered from the factory and it jumps both V6 and V8 which I assume defaults to V8 setting since when they come loose it goes to a V6 setting. As for soldering too much heat can burn out resistors, it's a calculated risk as they say...
I believe there are lower temp solders and you may have to use flux or solder with flux to get a good joint. The mating solder in the connection also needs to be heated up to avoid a cold solder.